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Technical Index Aerial+LNB 1 Cable Aerial amplifier Aerial Filters Aerial Groups Aerial Points Aerial - Which? Amp Adder Analogue Switch-Off A18QR aerial Arcon Dish Atticbox Audio Adapter USB AV equipment BBC/ITV outside UK Bedroom sound Best aerial Cable Kinked Cable specs Cable-Thin Coax Cable - Which? CAMs etc. Capacitor Kits Channels Chimney Brackets Coaxial Cable Cooling fan Compass use Cupboard Control DAT45 aerial DC inserter Decouple cable Denso Tape Digibox in loft Digisender Digital Ariel Diplexers DirecTV Disconnect safely Disguise a dish Dish indoors Dish Painting Dish Sharing Dish Size E-books Electric shocks Electronic Kits Electronic Parts Epoxy resin glue Extend cable Extender Plate F1 for Free Filter-notch Fire Hazard Fit F Connectors Fit TV plugs Foxsat HDR Free channels Freeview/Freesat Freeview Problem Freesat Install DIY French sat TV German sat TV Greek sat TV Heatshrink Sleeving Hole Cover Humax PSU Inside Sky Digibox Instructions Interference Invacom LNB Italian sat TV IR sensor-locate Large Dishes Lightning Protect Liquid Spilt LNBs - about LNBs - add more LNB amplifier LNB Boots LNB Fitting LNB-Replace Sky LNB Reset LNB skew LNBs-Switching two LNBs 2 in 1 cable LNB-waterproof your Loft Boxes Magic eyes Make Fly-Lead Multiroom phone Multiswitches No Satellite Signal Omnisat Semitronic Orbital dish Phone Socket Wires Phone surge protect Plate-Twin-F Plugs-which? Plug-Top PSUs Plus Combiner Powermid+cable TV Powermid XL Reed Switches Remote Codes Remote Eyes Remote extenders RJ45 plugs Satellites-where Scart leads Self-Amalg Tape SelfSat Antenna Signal Combiners Signal Meter Silicone Grease Sky x2 same room Sky+ batteries Sky Digital Sky in Europe Sky Install DIY Sky LNB Sky LNB-extra Sky Multiroom Sky Remote Probs Sky room wiring Sky Plus Solder - How to Split Digibox RF Split Dish cable Split satellite signal Stacker-Destacker Stuck in standby Thomson Problems Tree blocks signal Triax minidish TV/VCR faults TV Links tvLINKplus TV set New TV eyes USALS Videosenders VisionLink Wall Plates WF125 Plugs What Channels Which plugs Wire my house 304114 wall plate Shop Index All Aerials Aerial Amplifiers Aerial Attenuators Aerial Boosters Aerial Filters Aerial Hardware Aerial Meters Aerial Splitters Audiophile Bargains Books to download Boosters, Amps Cable & Extensions Cable Joint Cable on Reels Capacitors Caravan/motorhome Car Radio Adapters CAT5-HDMI Components Computer Batteries Computer Leads Digibox spares DiSEqC Switches Dishes Dish Hardware DVD Players Earth rod Electrical - mains Electronic components Electronic Kits Electronic Kits 2 Extension - Coax Extension - mains Faceplates Filters electrical F Plugs Fly Leads Freeview cable Freesat Digiboxes FTA Digiboxes Freeview receivers Fuses Gaming Accessories German Sat TV HDMI / Audio Headphone Amp Home Cinema Installation kits Leads + Plugs LED Torches LNB cable LNBs for Sky LNBs 40mm LNBs C120 LNB switches LNB amplifiers Loft Boxes Magic Eyes Mains Electrical Meters Motorhome Motorised dish bits Multiswitches Power supplies Remote Controls Remote extenders Resistors RF Cable RF Modulators Satellite Cable Satellite Meters Scart Leads Screen Cleaning Signal Combiner Sky Digiboxes SkyLink Amplifiers SkyLink Bypass Splitters Telephone cable Thomson PSU Tools Grease Glue Transistors TV Eyes TV Plugs TV Wall Brackets Videosenders Video/Leads Wall plates 1 Wall plates 2 Technical Index FAQs BLOG Contact Us		Problems with your DigiEye? (OBSOLETE) Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! OBSOLETE These notes will ensure that you get your DigiEye system working as quickly as possible. In common with all wireless equipment, the DigiEye can be upset by local interference. This comes in two ways. 1. The LED on the DigiEye should flash when it "sees" a remote control handset signal. However, it can be blinded by sources of infrared such as sunlight and electric fires. If it doesn't flash when you operate the remote control then move a little closer. Its range is limited because we don't want it to respond to signals coming through the window from your neighbour's remote control! However infrared radiation can reduce its range even further so check this if the range seems too short. Also make sure that the battery cells in your remote control are up to scratch. 2. The wireless signal can be swamped by electrical interference. This can come from a DECT phone, a mobile phone, a microwave oven, fluorescent lights and "energy saver" lights, Plasma screens, LCD screens, as well as less common transmissions such as a "Snooper" radar defeater as fitted in some cars by people who like to drive fast! Also LAN computer connection systems working on 2.4 GHz. In addition, other electrical equipment such as your TV set or computer monitor can affect the DigiEye if it is too close. 3. If your equipment seems to be responding to remote control signals from a neighbour, select a different "channel" using the switches on the rear of the units. 99% of all reported problems turn out to have a logical cause such as those mentioned above so please read these paragraphs again. Switch off anything that might be causing a problem and move the DigiEye systems away from other electrical equipment. The magic eye needs to be 6-12 inches in front of the box to be controlled. The DigiEye remote control extender was built as part of the Digisender range of products. All these products use magic eyes which are designed to be placed directly in front of the source device. With a Digisender the limiting factor is that the unit needs to be attached to the satellite box etc. via a Scart lead and thus the unit will need to be close to the equipment. With the DigiEye system the magic eye lead is used for 2 main reasons: 1: The device has been designed for a specific application - changing channels on previously unsupported PACE cable boxes on NTL and TELEWEST which utilise an IRDA protocol for the remote control. 2: Due to the high speed of an IRDA signal it is more susceptible to interference and degradation due to range. What the DigiEye does is to receive a signal from your remote control (basically a series of high speed IR flashes), converts this to a radio format to be transmitted to the receiver and then the signal is reproduced by the magic eye. The further away you are from the receiver, the poorer the signal that will be picked up and the performance of the system will be reduced. Also the further away the magic eye is from the source device, the poorer the signal will be that is received by the source device. However, you will find that a VCR (for example) uses a standard RC5 protocol which is lower speed and less affected thus giving a longer range. Occasionally some equipment may not like a signal that is sent via a remote relay but this is extremely rare and can sometimes be caused by varying tolerances in source equipment IR remote systems. On the Digisender range we supply multiple magic eyes (one for each input). I believe that I have spoken to one other customer with a similar setup. Experiments with our DG200X2 magic eye (2 eyes) and the DG400X4 magic eye (4 eyes) showed that the 2 eyes could be used with the DigiEye but unfortunately the 4 eyes can not (I believe that the DG400X4 has a slightly different drive circuitry for the 4 eyes). I would need to confirm this as this was some time ago that I tested this. The overall limiting factor regarding the range is the high speed of the signals used not the output power of the system. Some houses are built with internal plasterboard that is backed with aluminium foil. This will effectively block all radio signals. You can check your plasterboard with cheap a "pipe locator" device. Some older houses use a type of lath and plaster combined with steel "chicken wire". This will effectively block all radio signals. You can check your walls with cheap a "pipe locator" device. Symptom: The receiver has the power LED on & a light green LED pulsating gently. The transmitter just has the power LED on (sometimes you need to move it to get that to come on). Whatever you do (i.e. point remote controls at it) no other lights come on. Cure: This is a known issue when Digieyes are sent through the post. The PCB sits in a socket & it shakes out in the post. Unscrew the 3 screws & put the PCB back in place. When the DigiEye is working (and a remote is pointed at it), all 3 LEDs light up. If you need more help, click HERE to visit the manufacturer's web site where you will find a discussion forum. Click on the link "Technical Support". If you have any problems we would be pleased to hear from you with the symptoms and solution to publish here.   Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! Copyright ©2003-2011 SatCure Version 1.0 updated on June 4, 2003 This file may be downloaded for private and personal use but NO part of it may be published in any form without the prior permission of the author.